THE IMPACT OF THE HAZELNUT CROP DECLINE IN ITALY
Gianduja is in trouble. Gianduja is two things in the Italian chocolate world: 1. A Chocolate Confection: It is a sweet, smooth paste made from chocolate and at least 30% hazelnut paste (often combined with sugar). • It originated in Turin, Piedmont (a region famous for its hazelnuts) in the early 19th century. • The combination was an ingenious solution by local chocolatiers who were facing a shortage of cocoa due to a Napoleonic blockade, so they stretched their limited cocoa supply by mixing it with the abundant local hazelnuts. • Gianduja is used to make chocolate bars, creamy fillings for truffles, spreads (like the ancestor of Nutella), and the famous boat-shaped, individually-wrapped chocolates called Gianduiotti . 2. A Character: The confection is named after Gianduja (pronounced jan-DOO-yah), a cheerful, wine-loving peasant character from the Italian Commedia dell'Arte (a form of theater), who became the official carnival mask and symbol of Turin. Every time I’ve ent...